Here Krysia stands in front of a tent in which drums and flutes are creating a hypnotic trance in those who are dancing. One man is so immersed that at the end of each crescendo of drumming, he drops to his knees and attacks his own head with knives!!! cutting himself for all to see. The atmosphere is tense, this is the real stuff. Usually seen only on TV for us in modern GB!
It's very emotional and quite disturbing, the people here are gearing up a notch as the festival hits it's fourth day. It's been going strong all this time and many look tired but have not finished their devotion. In another tent a woman winds herself up with head shaking, first totally scarfed and then wildly, hair loose and mesmerising. She falls exhausted into the seated musicians and they play on! Men carry large cactus plants openly piercing themselves and weighty plates are hurled into the air above the dancers, which crash down on their heads! We are invited to join a group of musicians and sit at their feet as they bring a chap into a trance, over and over the pipes and drums repeat and then stop, only to start again immediately.
We are overwhelmed and as we are the only European tourist in sight, decide to take these cherished memories back down the hill to the tranquillity of the campsite! Not that we were under any threat. The police presence was evident and with no booze or drugs in sight, it was the heightened state of emotional tension that gave rise to some concern. People were openly going a bit far on themselves. Not everyone approved. This is , after all, a very old traditional festival that has been going on for a long time.
We will probably leave day 5 to The Berber tribes of the Rif mountains! Perhaps we'll do something a bit calmer tomorrow like wander the souk in Fez!!! Only shop keepers and guides to deal with there.
Our heartfelt thanks to the people of Meknes, Moulay Idriss and Sidi Ali for giving us this wonderful start to our adventure.
Tomorrow we travel.
Insha'Allah
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