Sunday 20 February 2011

Lost in the Crowd


Two days of extreme contrast!
Yesterday was a tranquil one, spent doing odd jobs and getting used to being in the warm sunshine! A bit of sunbathing indeed. Then a bike ride to the ancient Roman town of Volubilis, where we walked for several hours around the ruins of this remarkably well preserved old town.It's about 2000 years old, so I started to feel a bit like Indiana Jones as this photo shows. No real excitement though, no near death experiences. In fact the opposite, archaeologically fascinating. Excitement , nil!!!! By the end of the tour, I was well up for a cup of something to drink, needless to say, there hasn't been a cafe open here for 1800 years, so parched and full of history, we sped home on the bike for a coffee. Yes it was interesting, mosaics, baths, pillars and much more, but we have been enjoying a bit more life lately in the 'old' medinas full of people. So on to today.
Another slow start to the day, even turned to rain. No problem, Arabic to learn, friendly locals to practise on. Lovely stuff. Then it cleared up and a walk was called for. so we set off up the steep hill behind us towards the local town of Sidi Ali, where the 5 day fete is well under way.
Heaving, packed, bustling,mayhem ! are words to describe what we found. Unbelievable! Not a foreign tourist in sight except for us and friendly smiles and welcomes from all directions. We delved deeper into a very local arena. The tourists were from Meknes 15 miles away! and we were as much of a spectacle as they locals were to us. 'Welcome to Morocco' was said over and over again. Even a policeman said it to us! Little french was spoken so more Arabic to attempt and what a beautiful reception to trying you get. How much is that? Bshhal hada, we attempt and who cares, they respond with glee. We are once again like lambs to slaughter in this turmoil of excitement, like children at the fair. Loosing ourselves in the moment.
I have to admit that photography can't do justice to the onslaught to our senses. Imagine the sounds; horns and drums,voices and chanting, donkeys and sheep, music from all directions. Then there were the smells; roasting meats, coffee, incense, urine, goats, chickens and perfumes. The sights of traditionally dressed folk, women and men, dancing and chanting, banging drums, selling water, selling everything, calling out. We even had a tortoise healing! Yes a young man performed a ritual over us including a live tortoise and healed us of everything we could think of!
I filmed a dance without any trouble until, when Krysia had been dragged in to it and was filming her jumping around, A rather large women turned on me in fury, henna'd hands flaying at me and an abrupt finish to my intrusion. Scary women these Berbers! We just don't know the rules here and take chances with our cameras. Today I was taught a lesson.
as we left, we bought cushions , dates and a tarjine. Walking down the hill to our campsite, buzzing with thrill of what we'd just enjoyed.
What a day, we have been so fortunate again. We wish you all could be here. lots of love
Ted and Krysia

1 comment:

  1. wowza, what a day!!!! sound so amazing. real Morocco. non of that tourist!!!magaz

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