As hot as it gets!

Its been a long hot, windy, dusty day here in Mhamid. The sand gets everywhere, the sun is hot and there's a mild tummy thing going on with Krysia suffering most! Its not easy conditions but its amazing to be here. The river Draa passes outside the campsite and doesn't look like its flowed in years. It must be quite a sight to see it in flood, which it does, because now its a hundred meters wide and just sand, so something must come through here and give it its shape!

We walk for a few hours into the desert, going through this frontier town and leaving the touts behind. One has to be strong, we don't want anything, just being here is enough and being hassled is just not on. We meet a swiss guy named Michael, who's ridden a bike across the desert, as you do! He's looking for a campsite so we point him towards ours. On through the back streets we go, it's just so different to our way of life. It looks so very poor here but there are 4 wheel drives all over the place and satellite dishes on the roofs. Rubbish is very evident, what do you do with it in the desert when the wind probably blows for most of the time? Bury it? Maybe!

We have a lunch in town and its good,cheap and clean, also its in the shade! I'll say it again, its so hot, mirages on the horizon, dust devils swirling and sand storms erupting frequently! We're in the sahara, we couldn't ask for more!

An afternoon spent in the campsite, washing clothes, avoiding too much sun before venturing out into town as the evening sun cools down. Adam had taken a walk on his own and had some adventures when we found him, so we three mingled with the local folk in the busy street, no hassles just lovely folk going about their business. Women swathed in colourful cloth drapes, often nothing to be seen except their eyes. Men in turbans with flowing gowns and the younger set looking a bit more modern, even if all the girls do keep their heads covered. A real Moroccan experience just like the Beynons enjoy.

We have a lovely chat with Jaimie on skype, even the video worked well so we could see each other and talk. She's so happy that we are having such wonderful adventures and encourages us to have more. Adam chats to his lovely Riek on his laptop, walking around the campsite as it has wifi. Its totally bizarre that we can communicate so well with our loved ones and be in the middle of the desert. Modern technology, amazing

So a very warm goodnight to you all

lots of love

Ted Krysia and Adam.

The road to Mhamid

A slow start to the day, taking our time to breakfast and prepare for the days journey. We set off at midday on the good road to Agdz. The well known trick of pretending to be broken down was tried on again, I was having none of it! He stood in the middle of the road next to his car, waving us down, making out he was in trouble. I didn't slow down and beeped the horn. A game of bluff? Well, I knew I was going to win and at the last moment he stood to one side. What did he want? To take us to a carpet shop in Agdz, the trick is so well known that the Rough Guide to Morocco has it documented on this stretch of road.

The road over the top to Agdz is stunning, a geological wonder and then down into the Draa valley and the vast length of palmeries which follow the river into the desert. Its a fine road all the way to Zagora, driving through villages made of mud and scenery from biblical times! Its awesome to see life passing by in this beautiful valley, living as it does in a method that has come from way in the past. Africa as it was and is now, all flashing before us. We are spellbound.

After Zagora, the road narrows to one cars width and the driving becomes a game of bluff as to who will go onto the hard shoulder first! The scenery changes, Acacia trees proliferate as we get further south, it must get so hot here in high summer, its hot enough today and its cloudy, thankfully. We arrive at Mhamid and go straight to the campsite, avoiding the waiting touts as we already know where we are going, a good ploy here as in many other places in Morocco. Look a little lost and you are fair game. They only want you to go to another campsite or take a camel ride, nothing sinister.

We are the furthest south we can go in this part of Morocco and its a pleasure to be here, we wish you all our love.

Ted, Krysia and Adam

ps Adam is the photographer of the day, shooting these shots while we were driving.

Two very different days

1^st and 2^nd April

Written from a campsite in Ouarzazate

Yesterday was a long and lovely day! With Mohamed in charge of the proceedings, we set off laden with supplies to the Cascade D'Ouzoud. A drive of 50 miles or so, we set off at 9 am with Mustapha following, with Abdul Ali, Lahabib, Tarik and Houria, in his car. A smooth drive up into the mountains on good roads and we find ourselves in a beautiful valley. At the end of the road is a rather touristy area of campsites, shops and cafes. Well this a favorite destination for many people both foreign and local and we are told, gets very busy but not today thank goodness. So with targine, many meats, drinks and charcoal, we start the long haul down the souvenir lined steps to the bottom of the gorge. This beautiful cascade is hidden from view until you are upon it. What a view, as we descend, the true majesty is revealed and why so many people come here becomes obvious. Every spare piece of land is made flat, mats put down and cafes or just plane picnic areas are there for all to enjoy. Mohamed picks us a spot right in front of the falls, what a view under the shade of a tree with fine mist from the crashing water gently moistening our overheating bodies! Charcoal is lit and meats are prepared while we sit in awe of the place we find ourselves in today. In between eating, which is as usual very often we chat, take a barrel barge around the falls, walk around the ponds and visit the monkeys which inhabit the cliffs here.

We even find time to have a nap which, is much needed, as from the word go here with the family, we are instantly swallowed into eating and talking from morning til night.So the day passes delightfully and we leave the falls at dusk after having a needed shower in a campsite! Getting back to the house at 8.30 where the rest of the family are waiting to have more chats and more food! They are a lovely bunch of people but we are looking forward to a bit of peace and quiet.So today, with all last minute reasons to stay longer ignored and firm conviction, we set off in the blazing heat towards the desert. We've driven the tichka pass once before and its as awesome as we remembered, it gets cooler as we climb and stop for a snack at the Tichka pass after we'd completed the most exciting part! The van goes well, pulling up these remarkable bends and steep roads at its own pace but no slower than the lorries which take this route daily. Its only 150 kms to cross but takes 5 hours or more, the change in scenery is dramatic and we once more find ourselves in the bizarre lunar landscape of the southern desert.

We are flagged down by a couple of chaps who tell us that they have broken down and could we take a message to a house in Ouarzazate as they can't get through on the phone!?! Sounds suspicious? We reckon the address is a carpet shop and confirm this at the garage outside town. Cheeky boys, its a know ploy to get some business but crying wolf always backfires.

We're settled in to the campsite reflecting on the unique experience of the last few days. We're glad to be alone but will never forget the time we lived with the family in Attaouia. We thank them from our hearts, from saving us in the mountains to teaching us Berber but most of all, making us part of their family.

Things can only get better

Love to you all from Ted, Krysia and Adam

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Thursday Souk at Attouia

31^st March

A very hot and sunny day, the hottest so far! We ate breakfast as usual with our family! Laughs and jokes at the breakfast table to start the day. Then on to the largest and most authentic souk experience one could ever imagine. Chaperoned by our faithful Mohamed and Mustafa, We dive in to a swarm of life at its peak. Absolute bedlam would be one way to describe it but watching our two friends negotiate the endless stream of people, donkeys and mayhem, we see them at their version of a supermarket. We would be at the mercy of the masses, attracting all sorts of tourist attention both good and not so good but as it is, we cruise through the various areas of the Souk as if protected by an invisible shield.>
Mohamed is infuriated by his own people who inflate the price of ordinary goods because we are with him! He has none of it and walks away from anyone who doesn't give the correct value. He has lived and shopped here all his life, like us in the coop, he knows what things cost and can't believe that he is being asked to pay more because of us! The prices he refuses are what we are used to paying almost every time we shop. Its a fact of tourist life.

We, in the meantime are having the time of our lives, the animal market and butchers souk are fascinating, full of life and death. Food here is as fresh as you can get it. You want a chicken and its killed and prepared in front of you! All meat is killed the same day as its sold, there's strict enforcement. You can't get fresher food than that, its fantastic to see. We eat kebabs which consist of liver, heart and tripe! You chose it at the butchers and take it to the stall to prepare it for you! We attract the attention of minstrels who play a tune for a dihram so I I play them one for free! We have finished our tour of the souk so its down to the serious business of shopping for Mohamed, he is the head of his family as his dad died a year ago, so he does the weekly necessity. Its so cheap by our standards and the right price by theirs. So after buying a couple of woven hats for Krysia and I, he jumps into the job at hand and shops with a keen eye for quality and price. Meats, fruits and vegetables by the sac load are all piled into a cart, which waits patiently with its pusher, to enable this load of food to be safely transported back to Mustafa's parked car. Through this jungle of people, Mohamed darts to and fro as we wend our way to the finish line! And we're done, it's 30 deg c or more and back to mums house we go to escape the increasing heat! Phew its hot.

The rest of the day is spent entertaining or being entertained by the family, having a siesta and trying to find a small solitary moment to reflect on our situation. Incredible hospitality is very demanding, Adam excels at amusing any one of the extended family who wants our attention, Krysia fits in with us lads even though she could easily be swamped up into the female roles so defined here, Ayiesha as she's been nicknamed. I constantly endeavor to parler francaise wherever possible to aid in comunication which would be much easier if we all spoke Arabic or preferably Tamazirte if the older uncles had their way! Its a wonderful melange of effort and joy, its hard work to keep on being centres of attention yet we know these are special times for us.

The evening cools down as the sun sets and we walk through the countryside to hang out and chat. Its then time to eat yet again as the whole family gathers for the evening meal. We are starting to feel at home here and dive into the targines with a new learned dexterity that eating with ones hands requires! Its been another long and amazing day and I can only assume that things can only get better!

Lots of love

Ted, Krysia and Adam

Swamped with sweetness

29^th and 30^th March

Yesterday we had a swim and a shower before setting off to our new friends in Attouia. Its another world here in the campsite, more like camping in a Mediterranean resort than being in Morocco! Its a beautiful day and we stop for a quiet lunch in an olive grove beside the road. We arrive in Attouia to be met by Mohamed who takes us shopping before heading for his mums house. We are caught up in a cycle race and have to stop a hundred yards from the house to let them all pass! Then we are here again. Everyone is waiting and so happy to see us. We are welcomed as before, like long lost family, part of the family! Adam is received like a long lost brother , returned from a long journey away.

We are given a tour around the farm which includes milking a cow and sitting on a donkey, holding chickens and seeing a plasterer, Abdul Ali, at work. All with such pleasure. Next, a walk through the green fields and a chance to practice our shooting skills with a 12 bore shotgun, as you do when on holiday in Morocco! The evening meals are a starter of Targine which is enough for all, followed by a dish of cous cous large enough to feed an army, which is what we are as we amount to 15 people or more in this lovely sitting room! I amuse the family gathering by playing guitar and singing some impromptu tunes of thanks which seems to go down well, accompanied by Abdul Ali and Zara on drums. We get to bed with far to much food in our bellies, completely swamped with the sweetness of these good people.

On to today, I'm sitting in bed finding the time to write the blog. Its not easy to find a quiet moment as all moments seem to be full! We wake to a knock on the van door, its Mohamed. Breakfast is ready, come on, the day has begun. Its time to get going, after a lovely breakfast of pancakes and honey, we set off into town to do some shopping for our planned pique nique at the barrage. All sorts of goodies are bought by Mohamed who after all is a local. He shops with ease and soon we are on our way into the hills, to the barrage we came to the other day. Its another warm and sunny day, Mustafa and his wife and child, Siham and Doo ah, come along for the day. We set up under the trees in the shade and start preparing the feasts to come! While the girls set up the sitting area and cuisine, I take off the motor bike and the three lads have a go. Each of them enjoying themselves, especially Mustafa who has obviously fallen for the bike. Letting them play is a small price to pay for their kindness. All is well and nobody hurts themselves, so on goes the bike again while the chicken is served and the feast begins.

We spend the whole afternoon alongside this lovely reservoir in the shade of the eucalyptus trees, chatting and walking and then more eating! A lamb targine has been prepared and cooks quietly all afternoon while the turtles sun themselves at the waters edge and the bird life sings to itself, ' Its lovely here'!

We return to Attouia prepared for a small fete at sidi Hamed but unfortunately its off so we settle for a blessing and a walk around the grave of Hamed with a smile and labes with all the visitors hoping to have a healing or just plain good luck. Its all so wonderfully traditional without a tourist in site, well except for us of course. We have a coffee in town before returning to mums house for another round of 15 people eating together, chatting, laughing and delighting in each others company. Its quite overwhelming, very tiring and absolutely unforgettable! How are we ever going to move on? They want us to stay for ever! Which of course is just not possible!

So we will stay another day and be swamped a little more!

all our love

Ted, Krysia and Adam

Adams with us at Marakech

28^th March

What a contrast! We swim in a lovely pool and sunbath in the hot sun. Bikini clad girls and brown bodies are a strange sight to us as we take a break from our moroccan adventures and laze in an atmosphere more akin to the french riviera! Many other travellers are doing the same as us and relaxing in the sun. We all slept well enough to take on a visit into Marrakech in the afternoon, braving the onslaught of tourist traps with delight. Adam and Krysia both handle themselves well and shop freely without having to buy! We have a late lunch on a terrace above the streets, enjoying delicious food at good prices. Krysia bought a lovely set of 4 plates with gorgeous islamic patterns and is chuffed with her purchase. We found a lovely lad named Abdul who used a foot lathe to make small wooden charms using his feet with a dexterity to be marvelled at. He was a lovely boy who took pride in his work and I had to have some of his wares. I bought five of his lovely Gigi's which have a genie of happiness in each one! Adam bought a couple of fez hats as all good tourist should and he looks real fine in them, well one of them at a time that is! We wandered outside the medina into the back streets, finding tourist free areas that found our presence a little confusing. 'There's nothing this way' people would say but 'we're not looking for anything' we'd reply! 'This way to the tannery', ' we don't want to go to the tannery!' A chap followed us all the way to the tannery, telling us the way at various places only for us to leave him bemused when we left him standing at the tannery! We told you we didn't want the etc etc etc' . They just can't leave us alone. Walking the real deal is much more our style and we tire ourselves out before catching the taxi back to our van. 5 hours in Marrakech is enough for us and Adam is delighted at the variety of his first full day in Morocco.

He's so happy that we've let him put three pictures on the blog today, I think he wants my job!

The longest days

So here I sit in A campsite in Marrakech, wondering to myself how to put the adventures of the last three days into one blog. Its the first opportunity I've had to write and its quite an adventure to tell!

On the Thursday24th we took a road from Skoura, near Ouazarzate to cross the High Atlas Mountain range. We knew it was a small road but had had it on 'good ' advice that it was a sound route. It soon became obvious that a small road through the Atlas is not for the faint hearted! We've not driven a road like this before and concentration was high. It's a one track road so we were lucky that traffic was non existent! The evidence of landslides were constant and we were relieved that the weather was fair. Over passes and back down into valleys we hoped each climb was the last before reaching our destination. And then, while climbing a steep section of hairpin bends, it happened! The van started shuddering and loosing power. Something was wrong and we were about to breakdown which we did! She spluttered around a few more bends before coming to a halt. A fuel problem I thought and we tried to gather ourselves together to try and find the fault. We were on a bend which had just enough space to park so called action and busily we both jumped to the task at hand.

I haven't bled the fuel system for a while on the merc but I knew what to do, I tried to undo a small glass fuel filter to see if dirt was in the fuel and I broke it. Horror of horrors, I've made things worse but something had to be done, we're about 7000ft high and 30 miles from the nearest town! We're in trouble!

So this is how it went: A man in car stopped another man in a car who took us to the local town 30 miles away. He left a monk in our van for safe keeping! As you do ! He phoned ahead for a mechanic to meet us at Demnate who was there when we arrived an hour later, 7 ish pm. Mustafa speaks Morrocan so two lads, Mohamed and Tarik, came along to translate and give moral support. The same man, Abdul, Took us back up into the mountains with Mustafa and co following behind. What a drive! At the van, Mustafa got to work and repaired the broken glass filter with araldite before reassembling the now cleaned filter and with difficulty, eventually started our lovely van. We all jumped for joy, shouting with delight yes, yes, yes she's started! The offending dirty fuel is most likely the very same fuel I bought in the mountains two days ago! From the pipe coming out of the mud wall! what a fool I was but its so easy in hindsight to judge. The journey back to flat ground was eventful with the van often spluttering with difficulty. Mohamed, a charming lad of 23, kept our spirits high with constant joy and contempt to problems, ' Its not a problem' he kept smiling at us, 'Mustafa will fix your van , no problem' ' just a little problem, thats all! ' So we joined in his spirit and at 1 am we arrived at his mothers house, where food and beds were waiting for us! They are lovely people and we all eat around the table with Krysia and I dazed and very tired. This was the end to a very long day.

Friday 25th March.

now starts the day of enormous hospitality. Of kindness and spirit of a sort We've not experienced before. Today, Mustafa replaced all fuel filters and cleaned the fuel tank! It took the best part of the day and we were taken care of by Mohamed his mum Rachida and the ever increasing family members that kept on appearing in this small group of humble dwellings in the countryside of Attouia near Marrakech. They are a farming based people with very strong family ties. They are delighted to help us and feed us constantly with happiness and cous cous! We are overwhelmed with kindness. Confused by their naturally generous customs, we are not in debt to them, they are honoured to have us as their guests in our time of need. We are in their hands and are confused by such generosity. We are very tired and need to recover, yet the constant chat and many meals keep coming and we need to sleep. Mustafa turns up with the van and we are delighted, Its fixed and he doesn't seem to want any money for all his help????? Give me strength, let me pay for your help, please. So I give him 50 quid and he receives it gracefully.

Krysia has her hands and feet henna'd! As you do, a beautiful job. One of the many events that serve to draw these last 24 hours out into seemingly weeks!!!! In just one day! We insist on sleeping in the van and finding our space. Another very long day.

Saturday 26th, We have to leave today as Adam arrives in the morning at the airport. Not before a full day of events including a Haman and some shooting practice. We left at 7 pm, far to late in the day really but the drive was straight and we were parked up by 9 pm. We need to be alone as living in such intense hospitality is very tiring. Yet we will never forget the nature of these good people and in fact will take Adam to meet them!

Sunday27th

Its a warm sunny afternoon and both Krysia and Adam are asleep, I am glad to have had this chance to write the blog as these last few days have been the most demanding and delightful of the trip so far. We are glad to be alive and well, with good health and good friends. We wish all of you the same grace in life.

lots of love

The wild and daring but at times a little bit silly Beynons