So it's my turn for antibiotics, I've several symptoms similar to Krysia's malaise and there seems no point in waiting for things to get worse! Even so, we need to say our fairwells to our friends in Attaouia and drive the 50 miles, arriving by 1 oclock. It's another sweltering day but at least while on the road, the wind is in our faces and keeps us cool.
Mohamed is waiting for us in town and is very happy to see us. He tells us he has found work at the new petrol station and is very pleased with himself. To put things in perspective, he is to earn 2000 dirhams a month, thats about £160! His shifts are 48 hours long at the pumps, without a break and no sleep! 48 hours on, 48 hours off.
We find it all very hard to believe that our clever, amiable, intelligent friend is content with with his new job. For him, we think, it is not so much the poor hours and pay but having purpose which is important. He is a proud lad of 23 years who has the responsibility of caring for his mother and sister, his new job will help keep that aim of his on course. Good luck Mohamed.
On to the farm next, Rachida has cooked food of course and Mustapha turns up to join us. I eat little, which they find confusing but I am unwell so they have to lump it. Through the afternoon, the family members pop in to say their hello's and how are you's. We have brought gifts, shoes for Rachida, bracelets for Howla, Houria and Zineb, A football for Daoid and an Arab to English dictionary for Mohamed and Mustapha. Oh yes, a doll each for Eamen and Doaa, the youngest girls. These all seem to go down very well.
We are firmly telling them that we are also leaving today and are starting our journey north. We can't take another hospitality session here, Krysia is recovering and I am unwell, so we refuse the many persuasive attempts to get us to stay! It's not easy but after an afternoon in their company , constant chat in whatever language is spoken, many subjects that are so culturally alien to us and misunderstandings could so easily be made, we need to leave! Subjects like religion and wealth are hard work at the best of times but one has to tread lightly on the toes of Allah!! The tourist dirham is meaningless to a chap who earns less in a month than it costs for one nights stay in a tent in the desert! Our day trip in Mhamid in the landrover is unbelievable to them, 1100 Dirhams for a days ride in a 4*4! It upsets them, that is obvious. That's 2 weeks wages for a bumpy ride in the sand! We feel rather humbled and the disparity in wealth is awkward.
We leave all these subjects behind, say our many thankyou's and goodbyes and drive into the setting sun! Not before Mohamed insists we go to his new garage and have our van washed and hoovered! Mustapha joins us there too and after coffees and final chats, we leave for the peace of the campsite in Marrakech. Its a tiring drive back in the twighlight but we are glad to have completed our task in one day.
Goodbye to our family in Attaouia
Thank you for saving us in the mountains and showing so much kindness and hospitality.
All our love
Ted and Krysia
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