Wednesday, 20 April 2011

Back at the beach

Yesterday, we drove from Paradise valley to Imouzzere, another one of those mountain roads that defies belief as you zig-zag back and fro up into the Atlas Mountains. It's only 45kms from the sea to Imouzzere but it feels a lot further! I had visited here in the 70's but had completely forgotten the 'exciting' route up from Paradise. Emma, we know what you mean as you told us of your day out last year and the winding route. I think Krysia and I have done our winters worth of extreme roads this year and were a little surprised to find ourselves on another one! Then at Imouzzere, there is of course, the drop down into the valley to see the famous cascades. Another winding road with barely enough room for the van let alone passing places! Phew, we were glad to get to the bottom, well that is until we thought we have to go back up again. So we spent several hours admiring the waterfalls and watching the divers, listening to singing women and walking through the olive grove, then, well time to go back as sleeping here isn't an option. The drive back was easier as we tended to hug the mountainside rather than the drop side! Feels less intimidating when you meet someone as although its a good road, passing our van has to be done with care.
So it's back to the beach, which is pleasantly waiting for us to settle in and have a quiet evening. While having a chat with our Jaimie on Skype, we noticed a Moroccan chap on a scooter looking at us through the window, he wants to chat but we decline as , well we don't want anything and we're on the phone! How wrong could we be. Today he turns up again and stops by the van and says 'you don't remember me, do you?' 'Well no' I say. ' I'm  Mohamed from long time ago on Anchor point, I bring bread and doughnuts' ' My father had a shop, it's mine now. I know your face!' It's quite hard to believe but he is positive he knows us and is who he is and apart from wearing glasses and being older?! Well why shouldn't he be? It's only 30 years ago! And later on in the day we visit his shop in town and chat about the changes since he was 13 years old, like the building of the residence de Source which blocked the access to all of Taghazout as well as the surrounding hills, to the spring, which was their water source, just like it was ours when we were camped next to it all those years ago. The influx of surf tourism has meant that the village has benefited greatly even though development has changed the village beyond recognition.
Krysia remembers Mohamed, his eyes and his manner. The more time we spent with him, the more she could see that it was the same face that used to mischievously turn up at the van and ask if we want some doughnuts.' My father has a shop' he used to tell us. Now , he's turned his dads food shop into a trinket one instead, which is lovely for us as we can get some little things at a good price! and from someone we trust not to take us to the cleaners. Now could it be that its all a sham to get us to go to a shop and spend a few quid? There are some pretty weird scams going on here in Morocco but do you think that would include knowing Tom and his family, the welsh people killed this February on the M4 coming back from Taghazout? No, cynicism has to be subdued and the honesty of good folk allowed to prevail, he is Mohamed the shop from Anchor point 30 years ago, safi!
We finish the day by having a pizza in the village at The Spot, which was delicious and great value too. Moroccan life carries on around the scantily dressed tourists, we watch an old fellow smashing stones together and once broken he'd move on to another stone and on and on, no-one paying him any attention! Lorry loads of people would come whizzing by, at our level on the terrace, watching us as we watch them! It's all rather lovely and we're very glad that we've overcome our reluctance to embrace the change and get involved with Taghazout again.
All our love
Ted and Krysia

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