Blog number 60! The last one in Morocco 2011

Well, we've done our best to keep you all informed and entertained with our Moroccan adventures of 2011. There have been some up's and some down's but they've all added up to one incredible journey that has been at times, hard to believe that so many things could happen to two middle aged hippie types, in just 10 weeks of travelling. We're definitely feeling a bit sad as the ferry gets closer but will soon cheer up as the miles are behind us and family and friends are cuddled again. It will be lovely to see you all in the long days of early summer as it was cold, damp and dark when we left.
The highlight of the trip has been the Moroccan people, without a doubt. Such welcoming folk , so many smiles and Marhaba's, Labes's and Salam's. The beautiful faces of shepherds as they wave enthusiastically at us as we drive past is a constant joy! Shopkeepers have been ambassadors of Moroccan friendliness and ordinary folk, teachers in hospitality and kindness.

As we drove north today, eating up the kilometers, the landscape and the people changed. The countryside has become a garden of rich, green meadows and crops, reminding us of English summer countryside. Everywhere is being cultivated and used for pasture. Shepherds abound, tending their sheep and cattle even on the motorway banks. People cross the autoroute like the intrusion it has become to their normal paths and roads. They just walk across it!!! donkeys and carts wait in the central reservation for a gap to get to the other side and on with their business. People are in the fields as I imagine they were in olden times back home. Labour is cheap and plentiful here, folks are glad to have crops and cattle. Their life is simple and yet I suspect more meaningful. As we charge through the large cities of Casablanca and Rabat, all the adverts show French looking people playing game boyo's or internet liberating gizmo's, mobile phone freedom and fast as you like pizza's and cars! Modern Morocco is rushing forward with progress and money. Old Morocco waits patiently for the newbies to get it out of their systems or pass it on, 'give us some' or spread it more evenly.

We all want satellite TV don't we? and an I Phone Pad Stick Thingammeejig or............ maybe we all want/ need a little bit more honest love and relationship, family, friends and lovers. Simple times sharing simple moments. A bit of peace and quiet, a walk a chat, something to savour. Life is a gift and a blessing and in these ordinary people we've seen magic that can so easily be lost in complexity. Life is made to complicated by our desire to have more than we already have. In Morocco we have been reminded, we are so lucky, life is short and even holidays come to an end!

Thank goodness for that, I hear you say.
Lots of love
See you soon
Ted and Krysia
xxx

Heading North

  So it's time to head north with the trip coming to a close. We've been away 10 weeks now and all good things have to come to an end so that new good things can start! But it's not over yet, we've a long drive ahead of us and a lot of Morocco to see. Driving through towns and countryside is a fabulous part of the experience. We left Taghzout plage first thing, having really enjoyed being here.A few miles later, after going through Tamri, we were stopped by the police. This is only the second time since we've been here, the first was outside Meknes and he only wanted to wish us a good day. This fellow asked where we were going to and how long we've been in Morocco? He then asked for a souvenir from us, maybe a bottle of whisky! 'We have no whisky to give you unfortunately kind sir.' 'Then how about a book?' he said, 'an English book would be lovely!' So Krysia has a look for a book and comes up with The Happy Prince by Oscar Wilde. He gratefully accepts the gift and gets us to sign it, saying it will go to the local library.

 He wishes us a very happy journey and off we go. There are always two policemen on the road and his partner could not stop laughing at his colleague's nerve. Later on, outside Essouira, we were stopped again! This time , the stern faced policeman said that we had to take the motorbike off and leave it with him!! His face cracked into a huge grin when he saw a look of disbelief on Krysia's face.' Only joking, are you having a good time in Morocco? Why don't you come and live here, buy a farm!' he said?!? This is the truth I tell you, he was delightful to chat to and wished us a safe journey and come back soon. Now we've heard that the King has told the police to be pleasant to tourists but this is beyond belief! Two happy bobbies in one day? May it last.
The ever changing countryside is a delight to behold. The Argan trees cover the hills for many miles as we head north, the ubiquitous ' goats up trees' are a common site. They used to be part of the harvesting process, they'd eat the fruit and poop the stone, leaving the farmers only the nutcracking to do. Now, the majority of fruit is hand processed as we saw in a Women's Coop, where we stopped to buy some of the infamous Argan oil. Whoa that's pricey! but it's the real deal and the money goes to the community. The 'women' were all sitting in a line for us to see, showing us the process stage by stage, a cheerful lot, happy to be on view to help bring in the cash.

Leaving the hills of  the Atlas behind, wheat fields dominated the flat lands as we drove towards El Jadida. Towns  spilling out onto the main road with people taking little notice of our our vehicles, left us in no doubt that we are still very much in Morocco. A walking stack of bags blocked the road in one town! A heaving souk in another.It's all a feast for the senses and I'm already starting to miss it! Which is of course quite ridiculous as I haven't left yet but I'm a bit of an old romantic and this has been and still is, the adventure of a lifetime.
We're settled in at the campsite here at El Jadida which is familiar to us from last year. It's full of motorhomes!  All doing the same thing as us, travelling Morocco and enjoying it to the last drop!
We've a few days left before we leave and will keep you posted as best we can.
It only gets better
lots of love
Ted and Krysia
ps on the move photos by krysia

Yet another Mohamed

This delightful chap, pictured with yours truly, came passed the van this afternoon and proceeded to entertain us with history and language lessons, as well as geography and berber knowledge. He was also just a lovely human being and although he is a trinket salesman by trade, he forgot to ask whether we wanted anything or not! Which is rather unusual!
He painted a picture of  Morocco after the French left in the fifties, that was so poor, skint was the term he used!  There were camels for transport and the Berber people had to fend for themselves with their wits, there wasn't any money. He explained to us the difference between the 3 Berber 'Tribes' in Morocco and the effect the Arab world has had on them. He is an older man and has seen many changes and a lot of greed.

He passed by us and after an hour left to catch the bus to Agadir which he does daily, walking the beaches hawking his wares, staying alive and being himself! Thank you Mohamed.
I slipped 20 dirhams into his hand as he left and you'd think I'd given him the crown jewels, that's £1.75!
I thought I'd share him with you as he left such a mark on us.
Hope all is well
Love
Ted and Krysia

Back at the beach

Yesterday, we drove from Paradise valley to Imouzzere, another one of those mountain roads that defies belief as you zig-zag back and fro up into the Atlas Mountains. It's only 45kms from the sea to Imouzzere but it feels a lot further! I had visited here in the 70's but had completely forgotten the 'exciting' route up from Paradise. Emma, we know what you mean as you told us of your day out last year and the winding route. I think Krysia and I have done our winters worth of extreme roads this year and were a little surprised to find ourselves on another one! Then at Imouzzere, there is of course, the drop down into the valley to see the famous cascades. Another winding road with barely enough room for the van let alone passing places! Phew, we were glad to get to the bottom, well that is until we thought we have to go back up again. So we spent several hours admiring the waterfalls and watching the divers, listening to singing women and walking through the olive grove, then, well time to go back as sleeping here isn't an option. The drive back was easier as we tended to hug the mountainside rather than the drop side! Feels less intimidating when you meet someone as although its a good road, passing our van has to be done with care.

So it's back to the beach, which is pleasantly waiting for us to settle in and have a quiet evening. While having a chat with our Jaimie on Skype, we noticed a Moroccan chap on a scooter looking at us through the window, he wants to chat but we decline as , well we don't want anything and we're on the phone! How wrong could we be. Today he turns up again and stops by the van and says 'you don't remember me, do you?' 'Well no' I say. ' I'm  Mohamed from long time ago on Anchor point, I bring bread and doughnuts' ' My father had a shop, it's mine now. I know your face!' It's quite hard to believe but he is positive he knows us and is who he is and apart from wearing glasses and being older?! Well why shouldn't he be? It's only 30 years ago! And later on in the day we visit his shop in town and chat about the changes since he was 13 years old, like the building of the residence de Source which blocked the access to all of Taghazout as well as the surrounding hills, to the spring, which was their water source, just like it was ours when we were camped next to it all those years ago. The influx of surf tourism has meant that the village has benefited greatly even though development has changed the village beyond recognition.

Krysia remembers Mohamed, his eyes and his manner. The more time we spent with him, the more she could see that it was the same face that used to mischievously turn up at the van and ask if we want some doughnuts.' My father has a shop' he used to tell us. Now , he's turned his dads food shop into a trinket one instead, which is lovely for us as we can get some little things at a good price! and from someone we trust not to take us to the cleaners. Now could it be that its all a sham to get us to go to a shop and spend a few quid? There are some pretty weird scams going on here in Morocco but do you think that would include knowing Tom and his family, the welsh people killed this February on the M4 coming back from Taghazout? No, cynicism has to be subdued and the honesty of good folk allowed to prevail, he is Mohamed the shop from Anchor point 30 years ago, safi!
We finish the day by having a pizza in the village at The Spot, which was delicious and great value too. Moroccan life carries on around the scantily dressed tourists, we watch an old fellow smashing stones together and once broken he'd move on to another stone and on and on, no-one paying him any attention! Lorry loads of people would come whizzing by, at our level on the terrace, watching us as we watch them! It's all rather lovely and we're very glad that we've overcome our reluctance to embrace the change and get involved with Taghazout again.
All our love
Ted and Krysia

Paradise valley

18^th April. Monday

Paradise Valley

So named by a German couple who came here in the sixties who arrived here both unwell. After spending 6 months here, swimming and bathing in the river, they returned to Germany completely recovered from their ailments. They wrote back to the locals that they had found Paradise here in Aseef Lzhunt. That's how the story goes according to Housein who has lived here all his life and his father before him, in a tiny house under the palms in the valley.

We visited here ourselves in 1978 and I again the following year with Tunky and Vince. We are camped, as I'm sure you'll remember Tunky, in a small palm car park, next to the road where a delightful Moroccan played a joke on us with a matchbox. There was a scorpion inside and he let it out to our horror onto the table!! we thought maybe he wanted to sell us some hash but no, a scorpion emerged from from the matchbox like something out of a horror movie! Happy memories.

Earlier today, we walked into Paradise and followed a new path, safely up the valley to waterfalls and pools where we swam and dived for hours. Indeed Paradise. There was no path when we came here long ago and the climb to get to the pools was treacherous. We were glad today of a well constructed

chemin which made the journey easy and safe, allowing us access without terror to the most beautiful place we know of, to swim. We are thinking of you Tunky&Gene, in the pools and in the campsite, you are in our thoughts and prayers, may life be gentle.

All our love

Ted and Krysia

Taghazout Plage on a Sunday

Imagine Caswell bay on august Bank holiday, in the sun and you've got a feel for the atmosphere here. A full on summers day out for local people at the beach. Fantastic.
We finished yesterdays tranquil day a la plage with a beautiful sunset over anchor point, the fishing boats staying out all night, bringing in their catch this morning. We walked first thing to Taghazout village amongst the mass of football games that started early to make the most of the beach before the tide came in. They obviously love their football and play with a fiery enthusiasm. In the small port, the fishermen were landing their wooden boats after a long nights labour. They carry the boats up the beach by hand, engines over the shoulder as well as the nights catch. They are a friendly bunch as I chip in with a hand to carry a petrol tank, they are very used to tourists here and french flows from them with ease. We feel more like tourists than ever here and find ourselves speaking in english when it comes to ordering a breakfast at a small cafe overlooking the harbour.

 . 

We shop for supplies before returning to the van. A small demonstration in town interests us as children and families complain about prices in their verbal but totally peaceful way. Taghzout is essentially Moroccan with surf shops and pizza cafes thrown in for the visitors but at no time do we feel like we are anywhere else other than in Morocco. OK, if you don't like the way they deal with their rubbish, you might not like it here but for a  cheap holiday in the sun with Moroccan hospitality and hastle, Taghazout is a good place to start. We like it!

In the morning, Mohamed delivers bread to the van for 2 dirhams, he has been doing this all his life and assures me he was doing it 30 years ago to us surfers on Anchor point!! Life has gone on here in spite of the influx of wealthy visitors and Moroccans earn very little in comparison to us. So we happily buy goods from our visitors to the van as long as they are not ripping us off, which we don,t like at all. It's a happy balance.
We are parked next to a large motorhome which dwarfs our humble abode! Franc and Sophie live full time in their van and have all the mod cons you'd expect to find in an ordinary apartment. They have been living on the road for 5 years now and love it. We tell them, we have our Holts Field and family at home which keeps us returning to Swansea.

So until we do return
Lots of love
Ted and Krysia 

Yesterday is today as is tomorrow

Yesterday and today, all one moment. 30 years and more have been since we sat on Anchor point, watching the swells or jumping in to surf the big waves. Yet, as we sit and take it in, no time seems to have passed as the ocean is the same as too are the rocks. Is that Tunky and Vince in the distance? Or Gary and Jane? Memories merge into today as if there is no time and its all now! Beautiful to be here now. There were ups and downs as we grew into our adult selves learning how to be with others and for Krysia and I, as a couple. How could we have known what life was ahead of us? What joys were to come, what sadness and tragedy. We were living like there is no tomorrow, as young people do. Without a care in the world we risked everything for the biggest wave or highest high, the world was ours for the taking, things could only get better!

As the sun beats down on us this morning, we set off from Taghazout plage into the town itself. Many changes are apparent but what hasn't changed is this is still a very Moroccan village, bustling with life. We recognize some old landmarks that are now dwarfed by hotels, surf shops and apartment blocks, the town has grown enormously. Change happens, hopefully for the better and life certainly carries on here with or without the surfers, Where can they be hiding? there are very few visible at the moment but that might be due to the lack of surf!

On we walked, along towards the point, passing 'Aussie valley' and soon to the point itself. Now there were some small dwellings here before but now there is a clump of modern apartments obviously designed with the surfer in mind. A few of them were hanging around with laptops under their arms, no doubt looking up magic seaweed to see if there are any waves due! We sat for a good while letting the atmosphere sink in, memories and flavours awash our senses, where is everybody? In the distance we see an apartment block where the source used to be, our old camping spot has moved up market! Instead of a hoard of surfies and their vans, are a herd of camels and their young! No sign of the life that used to thrive here as we hear that camping on the point is no longer allowed? Why, we wonder, its still the same old Anchor factory in ruins and apart from Residence Le Source, it's just waste ground covered in Argan trees. I can see Bruce and Debbies thorn compound or at least where it was! Heady stuff this wading through the past!

The source itself, a spring, is now covered with a block of concrete and has a tap! No longer can you share your main water source with a herd of goats! Waiting for the water to clear was half the fun, the other half was running to the loo the next morning! It's all as it was and yet so different, we are different and a lifetimes have passed. How we wish our Jon could have been a surfy boy and ride the great waves that crash hear. How we wish........but life is as it is and maybe one day, Jaimie will come here in a van and tell her man that a long time ago, her mum and dad lived here like a couple of hippies when there was no such thing as a white motorhome! And they lived on £5 a week for 3 months! Now that was an economy holiday.

We returned to the van hot and drenched in memories and sweat. It is great to be here and remember our friends and acquaintances. A long moment has joined up for Krysia and myself, from 1977 to now a loop of life has happened. Tunky, Vince and I came here in 1979, to continue the dreams of our youth. To be on the road, surfing, travelling and being what we thought was free! In those moments we were and I'm so happy that we had them.

May you live your dreams and be happy

lots of love

Ted and Kysia

The sweet smell of the Ocean

So up and at'em first thing, we need to move on and find new horizons. It's another scorcher here, mid 30's at least and we have been kindly provided with a motorway, all the way to Agadir, helping all us tourists to swiftly reach the sea! In fact, there is now motorway from Tanger to Agadir non stop, such are the changes taking place here in Morocco. Our journey today, takes us through the dust bowl of outer Marrakech, intensely hot and windy, on up into the Atlas mountains and down the other side onto the Sous plain leading to Agadir.
As we dropped onto the plain, I suddenly smelled salt! a smell we have not had for two months now. The air became damp and cool, what a relief, Its sunny and warm yet totally different from Marrakech. more like the heat the Beynon's are used to. What a relief to feel cool again, we're going to the sea side!

As we approach Taghazout, we see plenty of wild campers obviously being allowed to park overnight. We join them and slip in between two motorhomes and have a spot right on the front of the beach. It's like all those years ago, camping at Anchor point, we can hear and see the sea, which is flat calm and very inviting for a swim. So we have two dips before having our evening meal, reflecting on the past we have had here 30 odd years ago. We're not on Anchor point but it's beautifully part of our sea scape and as the sun drops down, it becomes a painting. Taghazout plage is bustling and friendly, A moroccan chap, Mohamed, stops for a chat and says he was one of the small lads that used to bring food stuffs out to the point all those years ago. The other Mohamed was the shopkeeper and he is still here too, well why wouldn't he be?
We'll investigate our old haunts tomorrow, see what memories are resurrected which can then be verified by Tunky or Vince who also spent a winter here all those years ago.
lots of love

Ted and Krysia 

Goodbye to our family in Attaouia

13th March
So it's my turn for antibiotics, I've several symptoms similar to Krysia's malaise and there seems no point in waiting for things to get worse! Even so, we need to say our fairwells to our friends in Attaouia and drive the 50 miles, arriving by 1 oclock. It's another sweltering day but at least while on the road, the wind is in our faces and keeps us cool.
Mohamed is waiting for us in town and is very happy to see us. He tells us he has found work at the new petrol station and is very pleased with himself. To put things in perspective, he is to earn 2000 dirhams a month, thats about £160! His shifts are 48 hours long at the pumps, without a break and no sleep! 48 hours on, 48 hours off.
We find it all very hard to believe that our clever, amiable, intelligent friend is content with with his new job. For him, we think, it is not so much the poor hours and pay but having purpose which is important. He is a proud lad of 23 years who has the responsibility of caring for his mother and sister, his new job will help keep that aim of his on course. Good luck Mohamed.
On to the farm next, Rachida has cooked food of course and Mustapha turns up to join us. I eat little, which they find confusing but I am unwell so they have to lump it. Through the afternoon, the family members pop in to say their hello's and how are you's. We have brought gifts, shoes for Rachida, bracelets for Howla, Houria and Zineb, A football for Daoid and an Arab to English dictionary for Mohamed and Mustapha. Oh yes, a doll each for Eamen and Doaa, the youngest girls. These all seem to go down very well.
We are firmly telling them that we are also leaving today and are starting our journey north. We can't take another hospitality session here, Krysia is recovering and I am unwell, so we refuse the many persuasive attempts to get us to stay! It's not easy but after an afternoon in their company , constant chat in whatever language is spoken, many subjects that are so culturally alien to us and misunderstandings could so easily be made, we need to leave! Subjects like religion and wealth are hard work at the best of times but one has to tread lightly on the toes of Allah!! The tourist dirham is meaningless to a chap who earns less in a month than it costs for one nights stay in a tent in the desert! Our day trip in Mhamid in the landrover is unbelievable to them, 1100 Dirhams for a days ride in a 4*4! It upsets them, that is obvious. That's 2 weeks wages for a bumpy ride in the sand! We feel rather humbled and the disparity in wealth is awkward.
We leave all these subjects behind, say our many thankyou's and goodbyes and drive into the setting sun! Not before Mohamed insists we go to his new garage and have our van washed and hoovered! Mustapha joins us there too and after coffees and final chats, we leave for the peace of the campsite in Marrakech. Its a tiring drive back in the twighlight but we are glad to have completed our task in one day.
Goodbye to our family in Attaouia
Thank you for saving us in the mountains and showing so much kindness and hospitality.
All our love
Ted and Krysia

Melting in Marrakech

So its Krysia's first day out since being ill and we choose the high 30's to do it in! It's sweltering here but we feel the need to buy some gifts for our friends in Attaouia and can't laze around in this campsite any more. Having already preached the sermon on bike gear, we dress up and melt as we drive to town and that was this morning! Coming back this afternoon, we were like Magnum's after being left out in the sun. We've not really been in heat like this before, its quite extraordinary. We park near the Jemma el Fna and walk in a roundabout fashion in the shade of buildings to the souks, crossing the square in the sun when we have to. Once in the shaded market, we are able to wander more freely, trying to decide what to buy for the small girls of the family,little boy Daoid,  Rachida and Mohamed and if we get that far we'll be lucky! Its a tough task, every shop owner wants your custom and will sell you anything that you didn't need! Insisting its what you want and is at the very best price. So its not made easier by us not knowing what we want.

We get a guided tour of the dyers souk which lends to some good photo opportunities but alas for them no sales as we weren't looking for scarf's in the first place! They even invite us to lunch in hope that we will buy something but we're neither hungry nor falling for it.

At last we give in to a shopkeeper who has some wares we could barter for and we also ask him what is appropriate for the people in question. Bracelets are good for the girls and shoes for Rachida, 'now that's a proper gift for a women' he says and he doesn't even sell shoes! So a bracelet for each of the three girls and a pair of lovely white best quality, no tourist rubbish, shoes for Rachida. We're happy and the prices seem fair, which means we're paying to much but hey, its what its worth to you that counts.
Now for little boy Daoid we think a football. Can we see a football?,  anywhere! No chance, so I ask in a shop and they call out the door to a chap selling bags and he says yes, he can get one, just wait 10 minutes and I'll be back. He gets us a seat each and we sit and wait for his return, in the shade, and hey presto, a football for a fiver and 10 dirhams for the sweat! Finally, we get Mohamed a learn to speak English book as he showed an interest. This is an Arabic to English book so it starts at the back and reads to the front, as they do  here. Fantastic, we can go back to the campsite and get ready to move on in the morning, which is the plan.
Driving home was like driving into a hot hair dryer, I won't go on though, Its wonderful to be here even if it is like living in an oven!
Lots of love to all
Ted and Krysia

Calm time in Marrakech

Sunday 10th April

Adam left last Friday morning, happy to have shared our adventures. Krysia was unfortunately left with a very bad case of the Moroccan quickstep which was getting no better. So to ease our minds and her ailments, we got a doctor to come to the campsite on Friday just to make sure all was in order. A lovely chap came to our van and after a thorough examination gave Krysia a prescription for a variety of disorders due to her being most poorly. We've stayed put in this lovely campsite since then with only me going out on the bike to get supplies from the local Marjane ( their equivalent of Tesco's ). It's been very hot indeed, topping the high 30's last Friday and thankfully being a bit cooler since! Also, there is a swimming pool here and as Krysia is improving day by day, we spend more time cooling by the pool as do the many camper van'ists that stay here. For the first time since we've been in Morocco, 2 months now, we are actually taking it easy! Which although doesn't make for an exciting blog does give us the chance to recharge our batteries and most of all, Krysia can get better. Its no fun being ill at the end of the road in the desert, sand and scorpions ( yes I saw a nasty black one outside the van after dark ), dust everywhere and needing a doctor! Camping Relais De Marrakech is a very different matter, we could be in France! Imagine a large area full of 50 or more camper vans surrounded by flowers and trees, a restaurant and swimming pool and the owner's 'castle' overseeing it all with pride. He has created an island of tranquillity here in the midst of chaotic Marrakech. A rest place from the intensity of local life and loads of fellow travellers take advantage of it, including posh and not so posh, huge and small, hippy and dippy, cyclists and desert trekkers. All sorts take a break here.

It's quite bizarre at the Marjane, after 2 months of shopping at little kiosk type shops with great conversations and very local people, now I find myself totally lost in a supermarket full of Moroccans shopping at Tesco Extra! Queues at the check out and slower till girls than I've ever experienced. Not a happy shopper but a handy source of supplies to tempt Krysia back into eating.

What to wear on the bike is a problem, its so hot! The locals wear little in the way of protection and many foreigners are the same, zooming out onto these crazy roads in shorts, no helmets with their dogs on their laps! Myself, I wear my helmet, gloves, padded jacket, bike boots but have ditched the padded trousers. By the time I get to the supermarket I'm melting and thats only 10 minutes away! Other bikers on large machines seem to ignore protection and dress to look and be cool. Everyone here drives aggressively so to be safe one has to too but without protection??? I think not, I'll just have to melt, or stay by the pool.

We'll probably stay put until mid week or until Krysia is fine. We'll then visit our familly in Attaouia to say fairwell before continuing the journey to where, we haven't decided as yet. That's the beauty of being on the road, we'll go where the 'wind' takes us and find out what happens next.

All our love

Ted and Krysia

Mhamid to Marrakech

6th and 7th april

Unfortunately Krysia has not had a good night and has a tummy bug! We have to drive because Adam leaves on friday morning and its a two days journey for us. We stop at the first pharmacy we come to and are immediately sold antibiotics, no doctors needed here So with that sorted and Krysia as comfortable as can be, we set off on the long and ever changing road to Ouarzarzate. From the Sahara and a single track road as far as Zagora, all that's missing are the lions and giraffes!, we cross two mountain passes before the road allows us to gather speed as we enter palmerie valleys and ancient kasbahs. The single track roads are a pest as one of you has to go onto the hard shoulder to allow the other through, which is a game of bluff as nobody wants to. Its also time consuming so we soon put kilometers behind us after Zagora. We drive past Agdz and over the high mountain range that separates it from Ouarzarzate. Stunning geology at every turn. It takes us 5 hours or so and we happily settle in at the camping for the rest of the day.

Krysia sleeps most of the way and has a quiet evening, I go for a walk and have my favourite experiences at small shops buying bread etc while Adam takes a stroll into town to

see what he can find. A targine for me and Adam for supper, Krysia only eats because she has to , to take her second antibiotic.

We set off this morning at 11 ish, another long drive ahead of us with Krysia only slightly better. She again sleeps on and off most of the way, she braves it well as it has to be done. Snow has fallen recently high up in the Atlas, its melt water evident but of no threat. The traffic is flowing freely and I go at my own pace over the 2260 meter pass ( over 7000ft!). Its the descent which is exciting!, a series of hairpin bends taking you swiftly down to a much lower level and the van goes well and takes it in its stride. Well done van! Its one heck of a road, built by the french. Before that it was a tribal place governed by the strongest chief! Its now the main artery between the Marakech and the desert, a very busy road. Its also a very warm day and we are relieved to get to the lovely campsite we set off from nearly two weeks ago. We even have a swim, Krysia too, before settling in to our last night with Adam. Its been a real joy to have him with us and we'll miss him. So a very tired goodnight to you all

From Ted, Krysia and Adam

all our love

xxx

Erg Chigaga

All tummy problems are well enough for us to take on a landrover trek into the desert. We've left it until this morning before deciding to go and go we do. Hassan is the campsite owner and driver today and he's a rather grumpy fellow, all his tents blew down yesterday and no doubt he's got other problems but we don't let it spoil our day which is fantastic from the start! As soon as you leave Mhamid its rough piste straight away, we are immediately amazed by the speed and intensity of our journey. This is off roading for real, how any vehicle stands this treatment is beyond us. A ride at Alton Towers comes to mind, all the thrills of the fair and more. Across stony hamada and rutted piste into sandy dunes and Tamariste groves, we speed on relentlessly until the dunes of Erg Chigaga appear, we're about 20 miles into the Sahara from Mhamid and the environment is as harsh as one could imagine. Mirages, dust devils, endless flatlands and rising sand dunes, blue skies and heat, It is even more awesome than Erg Chebbi because we are almost the only ones out here. We did pass a single female with camel driver and camel! as you do, a back packer who seemed to be walking off into no-mans land, otherwise no motor bikes or trinket peddlars, just us and Hassans encampment, his 5 workers and a donkey, which was as grumpy as the boss!

We wandered off into the dunes and loose ourselves in this natural environment, it's hot and windy and we are well prepared with our water and dress sense. It seems we wander too far because Hassan comes looking for us thinking we might be lost, which we're not but he's in a state and has too many things on his mind so we smile and return for tea and lunch which is prepared by Mbarek, who's in a lovely mood and smiles at his bosses fluster. The food is lovely and we eat in a tent which is only half erected as all the others are blown flat by yesterdays gales!

A trip to the nearest well is next and thankfully its with Mbarek, who's much more in tune with the needs of us tourists! He's a happy chap from Berber origins and after showing us the well, tells us to wander off towards some camels and enjoy, which we do. He wanders off onto the hamada and finds us some fossils and we chat happily about anything we can. We're in the middle of nowhere and 4 local chaps appear, smiling and joking making the whole scenario even more surreal. They are on a camel trek with a tourist and find the whole thing delightful.

Back to the tent and a nap before setting off on the rollercoaster ride back to Mhamid. Hassan drives even more wildly this time, how these vehicles are hammered is beyond belief and Mbarek can't quite work out why we have to travel at such a speed with things falling off the roof and the rear door opening, bang, crash weeeee bump. Slow down Hassan! We find it unreal yet amazing if not rather uncomfortable and we arrive home zooming across the dry Draa river into our campsite to shower and de-sand ourselves, before settling in for the night.

What a day. Quite extraordinary!

I am able to put more Photos on lately as internet connection is so good!!
Such are the contrasts we find in Morocco
All our love
Ted, Krysia and Adam