Blog number 60! The last one in Morocco 2011

Well, we've done our best to keep you all informed and entertained with our Moroccan adventures of 2011. There have been some up's and some down's but they've all added up to one incredible journey that has been at times, hard to believe that so many things could happen to two middle aged hippie types, in just 10 weeks of travelling. We're definitely feeling a bit sad as the ferry gets closer but will soon cheer up as the miles are behind us and family and friends are cuddled again. It will be lovely to see you all in the long days of early summer as it was cold, damp and dark when we left.
The highlight of the trip has been the Moroccan people, without a doubt. Such welcoming folk , so many smiles and Marhaba's, Labes's and Salam's. The beautiful faces of shepherds as they wave enthusiastically at us as we drive past is a constant joy! Shopkeepers have been ambassadors of Moroccan friendliness and ordinary folk, teachers in hospitality and kindness.

As we drove north today, eating up the kilometers, the landscape and the people changed. The countryside has become a garden of rich, green meadows and crops, reminding us of English summer countryside. Everywhere is being cultivated and used for pasture. Shepherds abound, tending their sheep and cattle even on the motorway banks. People cross the autoroute like the intrusion it has become to their normal paths and roads. They just walk across it!!! donkeys and carts wait in the central reservation for a gap to get to the other side and on with their business. People are in the fields as I imagine they were in olden times back home. Labour is cheap and plentiful here, folks are glad to have crops and cattle. Their life is simple and yet I suspect more meaningful. As we charge through the large cities of Casablanca and Rabat, all the adverts show French looking people playing game boyo's or internet liberating gizmo's, mobile phone freedom and fast as you like pizza's and cars! Modern Morocco is rushing forward with progress and money. Old Morocco waits patiently for the newbies to get it out of their systems or pass it on, 'give us some' or spread it more evenly.

We all want satellite TV don't we? and an I Phone Pad Stick Thingammeejig or............ maybe we all want/ need a little bit more honest love and relationship, family, friends and lovers. Simple times sharing simple moments. A bit of peace and quiet, a walk a chat, something to savour. Life is a gift and a blessing and in these ordinary people we've seen magic that can so easily be lost in complexity. Life is made to complicated by our desire to have more than we already have. In Morocco we have been reminded, we are so lucky, life is short and even holidays come to an end!

Thank goodness for that, I hear you say.
Lots of love
See you soon
Ted and Krysia
xxx

Heading North

  So it's time to head north with the trip coming to a close. We've been away 10 weeks now and all good things have to come to an end so that new good things can start! But it's not over yet, we've a long drive ahead of us and a lot of Morocco to see. Driving through towns and countryside is a fabulous part of the experience. We left Taghzout plage first thing, having really enjoyed being here.A few miles later, after going through Tamri, we were stopped by the police. This is only the second time since we've been here, the first was outside Meknes and he only wanted to wish us a good day. This fellow asked where we were going to and how long we've been in Morocco? He then asked for a souvenir from us, maybe a bottle of whisky! 'We have no whisky to give you unfortunately kind sir.' 'Then how about a book?' he said, 'an English book would be lovely!' So Krysia has a look for a book and comes up with The Happy Prince by Oscar Wilde. He gratefully accepts the gift and gets us to sign it, saying it will go to the local library.

 He wishes us a very happy journey and off we go. There are always two policemen on the road and his partner could not stop laughing at his colleague's nerve. Later on, outside Essouira, we were stopped again! This time , the stern faced policeman said that we had to take the motorbike off and leave it with him!! His face cracked into a huge grin when he saw a look of disbelief on Krysia's face.' Only joking, are you having a good time in Morocco? Why don't you come and live here, buy a farm!' he said?!? This is the truth I tell you, he was delightful to chat to and wished us a safe journey and come back soon. Now we've heard that the King has told the police to be pleasant to tourists but this is beyond belief! Two happy bobbies in one day? May it last.
The ever changing countryside is a delight to behold. The Argan trees cover the hills for many miles as we head north, the ubiquitous ' goats up trees' are a common site. They used to be part of the harvesting process, they'd eat the fruit and poop the stone, leaving the farmers only the nutcracking to do. Now, the majority of fruit is hand processed as we saw in a Women's Coop, where we stopped to buy some of the infamous Argan oil. Whoa that's pricey! but it's the real deal and the money goes to the community. The 'women' were all sitting in a line for us to see, showing us the process stage by stage, a cheerful lot, happy to be on view to help bring in the cash.

Leaving the hills of  the Atlas behind, wheat fields dominated the flat lands as we drove towards El Jadida. Towns  spilling out onto the main road with people taking little notice of our our vehicles, left us in no doubt that we are still very much in Morocco. A walking stack of bags blocked the road in one town! A heaving souk in another.It's all a feast for the senses and I'm already starting to miss it! Which is of course quite ridiculous as I haven't left yet but I'm a bit of an old romantic and this has been and still is, the adventure of a lifetime.
We're settled in at the campsite here at El Jadida which is familiar to us from last year. It's full of motorhomes!  All doing the same thing as us, travelling Morocco and enjoying it to the last drop!
We've a few days left before we leave and will keep you posted as best we can.
It only gets better
lots of love
Ted and Krysia
ps on the move photos by krysia

Yet another Mohamed

This delightful chap, pictured with yours truly, came passed the van this afternoon and proceeded to entertain us with history and language lessons, as well as geography and berber knowledge. He was also just a lovely human being and although he is a trinket salesman by trade, he forgot to ask whether we wanted anything or not! Which is rather unusual!
He painted a picture of  Morocco after the French left in the fifties, that was so poor, skint was the term he used!  There were camels for transport and the Berber people had to fend for themselves with their wits, there wasn't any money. He explained to us the difference between the 3 Berber 'Tribes' in Morocco and the effect the Arab world has had on them. He is an older man and has seen many changes and a lot of greed.

He passed by us and after an hour left to catch the bus to Agadir which he does daily, walking the beaches hawking his wares, staying alive and being himself! Thank you Mohamed.
I slipped 20 dirhams into his hand as he left and you'd think I'd given him the crown jewels, that's £1.75!
I thought I'd share him with you as he left such a mark on us.
Hope all is well
Love
Ted and Krysia

Back at the beach

Yesterday, we drove from Paradise valley to Imouzzere, another one of those mountain roads that defies belief as you zig-zag back and fro up into the Atlas Mountains. It's only 45kms from the sea to Imouzzere but it feels a lot further! I had visited here in the 70's but had completely forgotten the 'exciting' route up from Paradise. Emma, we know what you mean as you told us of your day out last year and the winding route. I think Krysia and I have done our winters worth of extreme roads this year and were a little surprised to find ourselves on another one! Then at Imouzzere, there is of course, the drop down into the valley to see the famous cascades. Another winding road with barely enough room for the van let alone passing places! Phew, we were glad to get to the bottom, well that is until we thought we have to go back up again. So we spent several hours admiring the waterfalls and watching the divers, listening to singing women and walking through the olive grove, then, well time to go back as sleeping here isn't an option. The drive back was easier as we tended to hug the mountainside rather than the drop side! Feels less intimidating when you meet someone as although its a good road, passing our van has to be done with care.

So it's back to the beach, which is pleasantly waiting for us to settle in and have a quiet evening. While having a chat with our Jaimie on Skype, we noticed a Moroccan chap on a scooter looking at us through the window, he wants to chat but we decline as , well we don't want anything and we're on the phone! How wrong could we be. Today he turns up again and stops by the van and says 'you don't remember me, do you?' 'Well no' I say. ' I'm  Mohamed from long time ago on Anchor point, I bring bread and doughnuts' ' My father had a shop, it's mine now. I know your face!' It's quite hard to believe but he is positive he knows us and is who he is and apart from wearing glasses and being older?! Well why shouldn't he be? It's only 30 years ago! And later on in the day we visit his shop in town and chat about the changes since he was 13 years old, like the building of the residence de Source which blocked the access to all of Taghazout as well as the surrounding hills, to the spring, which was their water source, just like it was ours when we were camped next to it all those years ago. The influx of surf tourism has meant that the village has benefited greatly even though development has changed the village beyond recognition.

Krysia remembers Mohamed, his eyes and his manner. The more time we spent with him, the more she could see that it was the same face that used to mischievously turn up at the van and ask if we want some doughnuts.' My father has a shop' he used to tell us. Now , he's turned his dads food shop into a trinket one instead, which is lovely for us as we can get some little things at a good price! and from someone we trust not to take us to the cleaners. Now could it be that its all a sham to get us to go to a shop and spend a few quid? There are some pretty weird scams going on here in Morocco but do you think that would include knowing Tom and his family, the welsh people killed this February on the M4 coming back from Taghazout? No, cynicism has to be subdued and the honesty of good folk allowed to prevail, he is Mohamed the shop from Anchor point 30 years ago, safi!
We finish the day by having a pizza in the village at The Spot, which was delicious and great value too. Moroccan life carries on around the scantily dressed tourists, we watch an old fellow smashing stones together and once broken he'd move on to another stone and on and on, no-one paying him any attention! Lorry loads of people would come whizzing by, at our level on the terrace, watching us as we watch them! It's all rather lovely and we're very glad that we've overcome our reluctance to embrace the change and get involved with Taghazout again.
All our love
Ted and Krysia

Paradise valley

18^th April. Monday

Paradise Valley

So named by a German couple who came here in the sixties who arrived here both unwell. After spending 6 months here, swimming and bathing in the river, they returned to Germany completely recovered from their ailments. They wrote back to the locals that they had found Paradise here in Aseef Lzhunt. That's how the story goes according to Housein who has lived here all his life and his father before him, in a tiny house under the palms in the valley.

We visited here ourselves in 1978 and I again the following year with Tunky and Vince. We are camped, as I'm sure you'll remember Tunky, in a small palm car park, next to the road where a delightful Moroccan played a joke on us with a matchbox. There was a scorpion inside and he let it out to our horror onto the table!! we thought maybe he wanted to sell us some hash but no, a scorpion emerged from from the matchbox like something out of a horror movie! Happy memories.

Earlier today, we walked into Paradise and followed a new path, safely up the valley to waterfalls and pools where we swam and dived for hours. Indeed Paradise. There was no path when we came here long ago and the climb to get to the pools was treacherous. We were glad today of a well constructed

chemin which made the journey easy and safe, allowing us access without terror to the most beautiful place we know of, to swim. We are thinking of you Tunky&Gene, in the pools and in the campsite, you are in our thoughts and prayers, may life be gentle.

All our love

Ted and Krysia

Taghazout Plage on a Sunday

Imagine Caswell bay on august Bank holiday, in the sun and you've got a feel for the atmosphere here. A full on summers day out for local people at the beach. Fantastic.
We finished yesterdays tranquil day a la plage with a beautiful sunset over anchor point, the fishing boats staying out all night, bringing in their catch this morning. We walked first thing to Taghazout village amongst the mass of football games that started early to make the most of the beach before the tide came in. They obviously love their football and play with a fiery enthusiasm. In the small port, the fishermen were landing their wooden boats after a long nights labour. They carry the boats up the beach by hand, engines over the shoulder as well as the nights catch. They are a friendly bunch as I chip in with a hand to carry a petrol tank, they are very used to tourists here and french flows from them with ease. We feel more like tourists than ever here and find ourselves speaking in english when it comes to ordering a breakfast at a small cafe overlooking the harbour.

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We shop for supplies before returning to the van. A small demonstration in town interests us as children and families complain about prices in their verbal but totally peaceful way. Taghzout is essentially Moroccan with surf shops and pizza cafes thrown in for the visitors but at no time do we feel like we are anywhere else other than in Morocco. OK, if you don't like the way they deal with their rubbish, you might not like it here but for a  cheap holiday in the sun with Moroccan hospitality and hastle, Taghazout is a good place to start. We like it!

In the morning, Mohamed delivers bread to the van for 2 dirhams, he has been doing this all his life and assures me he was doing it 30 years ago to us surfers on Anchor point!! Life has gone on here in spite of the influx of wealthy visitors and Moroccans earn very little in comparison to us. So we happily buy goods from our visitors to the van as long as they are not ripping us off, which we don,t like at all. It's a happy balance.
We are parked next to a large motorhome which dwarfs our humble abode! Franc and Sophie live full time in their van and have all the mod cons you'd expect to find in an ordinary apartment. They have been living on the road for 5 years now and love it. We tell them, we have our Holts Field and family at home which keeps us returning to Swansea.

So until we do return
Lots of love
Ted and Krysia 

Yesterday is today as is tomorrow

Yesterday and today, all one moment. 30 years and more have been since we sat on Anchor point, watching the swells or jumping in to surf the big waves. Yet, as we sit and take it in, no time seems to have passed as the ocean is the same as too are the rocks. Is that Tunky and Vince in the distance? Or Gary and Jane? Memories merge into today as if there is no time and its all now! Beautiful to be here now. There were ups and downs as we grew into our adult selves learning how to be with others and for Krysia and I, as a couple. How could we have known what life was ahead of us? What joys were to come, what sadness and tragedy. We were living like there is no tomorrow, as young people do. Without a care in the world we risked everything for the biggest wave or highest high, the world was ours for the taking, things could only get better!

As the sun beats down on us this morning, we set off from Taghazout plage into the town itself. Many changes are apparent but what hasn't changed is this is still a very Moroccan village, bustling with life. We recognize some old landmarks that are now dwarfed by hotels, surf shops and apartment blocks, the town has grown enormously. Change happens, hopefully for the better and life certainly carries on here with or without the surfers, Where can they be hiding? there are very few visible at the moment but that might be due to the lack of surf!

On we walked, along towards the point, passing 'Aussie valley' and soon to the point itself. Now there were some small dwellings here before but now there is a clump of modern apartments obviously designed with the surfer in mind. A few of them were hanging around with laptops under their arms, no doubt looking up magic seaweed to see if there are any waves due! We sat for a good while letting the atmosphere sink in, memories and flavours awash our senses, where is everybody? In the distance we see an apartment block where the source used to be, our old camping spot has moved up market! Instead of a hoard of surfies and their vans, are a herd of camels and their young! No sign of the life that used to thrive here as we hear that camping on the point is no longer allowed? Why, we wonder, its still the same old Anchor factory in ruins and apart from Residence Le Source, it's just waste ground covered in Argan trees. I can see Bruce and Debbies thorn compound or at least where it was! Heady stuff this wading through the past!

The source itself, a spring, is now covered with a block of concrete and has a tap! No longer can you share your main water source with a herd of goats! Waiting for the water to clear was half the fun, the other half was running to the loo the next morning! It's all as it was and yet so different, we are different and a lifetimes have passed. How we wish our Jon could have been a surfy boy and ride the great waves that crash hear. How we wish........but life is as it is and maybe one day, Jaimie will come here in a van and tell her man that a long time ago, her mum and dad lived here like a couple of hippies when there was no such thing as a white motorhome! And they lived on £5 a week for 3 months! Now that was an economy holiday.

We returned to the van hot and drenched in memories and sweat. It is great to be here and remember our friends and acquaintances. A long moment has joined up for Krysia and myself, from 1977 to now a loop of life has happened. Tunky, Vince and I came here in 1979, to continue the dreams of our youth. To be on the road, surfing, travelling and being what we thought was free! In those moments we were and I'm so happy that we had them.

May you live your dreams and be happy

lots of love

Ted and Kysia