No straight lines in Morocco

8th March

We are finding it difficult to move on from here, its so tranquil. M'hamed teaches us more and more Arabic and says we are like his parents! He's not going to like us leaving but we have to go sometime but..... not today, one more day here. Lets go tomorrow.

Hassan, the campsite owner is taking a french family to the local luxar, thats terraced housing Moroccan style. We decline because he only speaks french and we'd get a bit lost in chat, so we leave them go and follow on an hour later to explore ourselves. As we arrive at the enclosed mud built village, Hassan spots us and calls us in for tea with the family and of course we join them. There are no straight lines here in Morocco! Fatima is our host and she only speaks Berber and Arabic! Hassan speaks french as well, Krysia would like some English and I want to practice my Arabic!! An interesting melange. Its quickly evident that my Arabic causes amusement and interest. I don't think that many french 'have a go'! And Hassan enjoys my awful attempts. Now Fatima thinks its better to speak Berber, what's with all this french, she can't understand a word of it so she confidently chats away in Berber with Hassan translating into french and I into English for Krysia. Fatima spots this and is delighted that she's not the only one who doesn't parler le francais and strikes up a friendship with Krysia straight away. The french family now have to entertain speaking Berber, English and Arabic! And of course Krysia does parler francais un peu and all is a delightful comedy of errors. A madhatters tea party if ever there was one.

We are left in this strange collection of alleyways after being shown the way out. Only one exit here! We wander in near dark tunnels passed peoples front doors before being pleasantly accosted by local ladies who take us into their cooperative with squeals of delight and much giggling. They proceed to dress krysia up in all sorts of clothes, wedding seems to be on their minds not on hers, and photos are allowed by some and not others. Its a delightful experience and the traditional dress here has been something krysia has been wanting since we first saw it. So we bought a headscarf and wrap for a great price and everyone was happy. We didn't have any money with us but no problem, bring it later and take the clothes with you! You are staying at Hassans camping!

We easily find our way out and return to the van to pack for tomorrow. As I said before, There are no straight lines in Morocco and many chats with M'hamed who wants to help us in anyway he can leads me to not getting things ready and its time to go and pay for the clothes. 5pm now. After paying the ladies, we leave only to be invited into Ali's for tea! Ali just walked by us in the village and as we've decline invites already today we took up this complete strangers offer. He was ritualistic in his tea ceremony and also broke bread and dipped it into olive oil with us. Almost an expected gesture to make with foreigners we thought. He didn't want anything! We left and walked the mile home quite dazed.

M 'hamed has already made it quite clear that he's not happy about us leaving and visits us later with gifts and admissions of sorrow at our departure, he's such a sweetheart. We've been here a week and the campsite guardian doesn't want us to leave! What a funny place morocco is! What a lovely time we are having here.

Layla saida ( goodnight )

Ted and Krysia

PS Happy Birthday to Dave Carter