Days in the Palmerie

18th & 19th March

Yesterday, we investigated the palmerie across the stream from the campsite. A stroll we had in mind but as usual an epic was to unfold! We soon came to the walls of the old ksour, which stretches out for a mile or more. Totally deserted and crumbling into dust, this epic structure hugs the side of the valley like a forgotten city. Nobody lives here now whereas everybody used to live here. But there is no road this side of the river and progress demanded change and a road. The town now hugs the other side of the valley and the use of cement will prolong their lifespan without the need for 'remudding', saying that, we have come across plenty of evidence for traditional building techniques being kept alive.

We wandered the valley above the ksour in the hot sun in awe of the views and the decaying past below us. Before sunstroke could take hold, we found safe entry into the old town. Whole communities lived here and now we can stroll in and out of their old dwellings without hindrance. It feels strange, like someone is going to tell us off for trespass or say that its dangerous. Through old doorways we find access to the palmerie and quiet, tranquil greenery. Women work the fields, chatting to themselves while we gaze in delight at the swarms of dragonflies and flocks of swallows all eating their fill of the clouds of insects. Its so fertile here, in stark contrast to the landscape surrounding the palmerie which is as barren as the moon appears to be! A true oasis in the desert is the Todra valley.

Today, we went to town, Tinerhir, for supplies, a wander and some lunch. Its got a lovely real feel here, walking the backstreets among the welders and woodworkers, cheery hellos are offered with nothing but smiles and salam's. Foods are as always fresh and cheap, dates are available by the bucketfull. We love dates! A brochette at a small cafe keeps hunger at bay followed by a homemade yoghurt at another little shop, tops off our mid day outing. Not forgetting our first ever shoe shine, which felt really strange. A young man was so keen to do the task and our bike boots did need it, so we bartered a fair price and he did an excellent job. We paid him double! He beamed with delight and skipped off to tell his friends. We were humbled and reminded of our own young man who never had the chance to be a shoe shiner, life in all its forms is life!

Late in the afternoon we take another wander through the palmerie, further up the valley this time. We return innocently, unaware of the delight about to befall us. Out of a doorway from the old ksour, an old fella pops out and invites us to come inside the walls to his garden! Well ok, we say and all 5 ft of him enthusiastically leads us into his garden of eden. He babbles away in french, with little time to listen as he shows us his methods of date fertilization!, nothing sinister, and oven baking methods in a traditioal mud oven. He has 8 children and used to live in the old ksour before the evacuation took place. This is the old garden to his house and he obviously misses the old neighbourhood.

He then quickly removes his shoes and tells us to watch, while he runs up to a palm tree and starts scaling it at full pelt!!! Shock horror as he reaches the top, does a circle on the high branches and comes down as quick as monkey! We are dumbstruck and enquire to his age? 80! what?!?! 80 he repeats. He grins at us with pride at showing us what he's been doing all his life ' Now if I take my jelaba off, you should see how quick I am!' Hold it there old fella, we are well impressed already! He then offers to take us, tomorrow, on a mountain walk! We wonder if we have the stamina to keep up with him? He politely shows us back to the campsite and says goodbye. We took photos and film of his antics and had to look at them to confirm it all happened, if it was a dream, it was a good one and we have photos to prove it!

Fantastic!

Goodnight

love Ted aand Krysia