Wednesday 16 March 2011

The Desert to the Todra Gorge




Krysia woke up before it was light and went out onto the dunes to watch the sunrise. I couldn't miss that now could I? So I joined her, along with several other tourists scattered along the dunes to watch the break of day. The opportunist sellers were out too and needed to be told the obvious, 'do I look like I want to buy a trinket at this time of the morning?' They are so persistent but are only trying to earn a living so we are pleasant but firm. ' La Shukran'
We packed up and left by mid-day knowing that Merzouga has left its mark on us, we've really enjoyed this quirky place. The dunes, the black hamada,the town and the people have all added to the pleasure of being here.
We drive north for the first time since we left Wales which means that the sun is behind us and not glaring in our faces. The dunes soon disappear and the seemingly endless hamada takes over. There is just so much space here, swarms of dragonflies fill the air as we drive, willing them not to hit our windscreen. Dust devils spring up and a mini sandstorm erupts and the wind, the strong sahara wind is a force you have to reckon with. We drove through the middle of one such swirl and as we passed, it felt like a juggernaut was going by with the change of air pressure, I really had to hold on tight. A village sprung out of the dust, in full souk fever! we drove through the middle of it in awe of the chaos and colour. A desert stretch of wind and dust revealed a series of wells with Toureg nomads setting up their tents in this barren oven. Black folds of lava rock are all around to the south while the snow capped peaks of the High Atlas are to the north. What a drive, to arrive at the splendid town of Teneghir nestled in the palmerie at the foothills of the Todra gorge. We shop and then drive up into the valley and camp at a lovely site just 5 kms from the gorge itself. We will find out tomorrow what delights it holds in store for us.
Phew, what a day.

Sleep well
love Ted and Krysia

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